Exploring the Pacific Greenway: from Portland to the Coast

Upper Gourlay Loop

The Upper Gourlay Trail - a remote and wild landscape

Distance:  3. 92 miles one way; 7.85 miles round trip

Walk duration: 4 hours 30 minutes

Travel time to trailhead: 45 minutes

Driving directions to the trailhead: From downtown Portland drive north on US 30 to Scappoose. Turn left opposite the gas station on Bonneville Drive and then an immediate right on to Old Portland Road that parallels US 30 passing behind Scappoose. Turn left on Dutch Canyon Road, and follow this gradually west entering into the South Scappoose Creek valley. Follow this road all the way back to the bridge near the very end of the Dutch Canyon Road. Cross the bridge and immediately after the pavement ends. Follow this dirt road upwards for just over 2.8 miles (passing a clearing with two homes) and pull off and park at the blue gate on the left hand side of the road.

Elevation change: highest elevation 1300 feet; lowest 699 feet crossing Gourlay Creek

Conditions: graveled logging roads, some portions with rougher grade stone, but dry and hard all the way. Walkable in all weather.

Brief summary: This walk follows a remote little used logging road into the upper reaches of the Gourlay Creek watershed. This area is not currently being actively logged.

This logging road is a solitary upper branch of the logging road network. It connects with the following trail and/or “loop” route I have mapped via a bushwhack described below:

* Gourlay Creek Grade line road

Trail directions:

The Upper Gourlay trail is a remote beauty! Located near the top of the Gourlay Creek Watershed this logging road is the last of the blue gates on the left (if you’re ascending from Dutch Canyon as suggested by the directions). If instead, you drive in from the ridge top coming by way of Dixie Mountain (.9 miles from the Smoke Ranch turnoff), this will be the first “blue gate” you’ll see that has much “walking” potential. The gates located on the winding section of road leading down from the Smoke ranch turnoff are mostly short roads that end almost within sight of the gate. This gate located where the road begins to flatten out as it reaches the highest plateau in the watershed. Further down and located on the same plateau is the entrance to the Barrow Trail heading north.

The beginning of this trail is a trudge...

After a few shallow turns at the beginning of this trail the rocky logging road disappears under the canopy of some 40 year old Big leaf maples, and Douglas Firs. trees - heading south. First two miles are an undistinguished trudge through an older mixed conifer and deciduous tree canopy - shady in summer and wet in winter. The diameter rock used on this portion of the road is rather large and a bit difficult to walk on, especially for dogs. Since the road traverses a slope water accumulates alongside the road. But thanks to the rock base of the road the road itself is reasonably dry. For nearly two miles the road heads south dropping from an elevation of 1300 to about 1050. Initially I turned back after a mile or so, and it wasn’t until nearly two years later that I finally explored this route to its end - and what a surprise I got!

After 2 miles the road turns slightly to the East and emerges on a logged hillside on the upper slopes of the Gourlay Creek Watershed. This is a remote section of the watershed since the “mainline” road doesn’t offer any connections to this upper route.

I explored this route on a stormy day and was entranced with the wild beauty of the place. These pictures were taken near the transition in the trail at the 2 mile point - looking out into the seldom visited upper slopes of the Gourlay Creek watershed. At the 2 mile point the road splits and the left hand fork curves off to the east and dead-end on a point overlooking Gourlay creek that winds its way south below this 10 year old clear cut. The second picture (above) depicts the remote quality at the end of this ridge. If you decide to walk out to the end of this point, it’s about .4 miles - one way.

But to proceed further we will take the right-hand fork that traverses the upper slopes heading south. Just beyond the tree line where this road leaves the clearcut, you will encounter a split in the road. The upper route dead-ends in a few yards. The lower route crosses the creek that cascades down (feeding Gourlay Creek below), but not before it has collapsed a major portion of the roadway. There’s enough room to walk by, but I don’t recommend walking right along the edge...

For the next half mile the trail drops relatively steeply from 1024 ft. in elevation at the collapsed portion down to 699 ft in elevation where it crosses Gourlay Creek. By now you’re sunk deep into the folds of the Gourlay Creek watershed. I have actually bushwhacked my way out of this remote canyon down to the “mainline” road, but that was both strenuous and very difficult - if not, a bit dangerous if you’re on your own. It’s prudent to keep in mind that if you were to break a leg or otherwise sustain an injury that precluded you from getting out of this steep and overgrown ravine - it could take days before rescuers would be able to get into this area deep enough to hear your (by then) feeble calls for help. Because I do most of my exploration alone, I carry adequate emergency gear to sustain me for a couple of days. Even better, hike with a friend, but keep you voices low if you want to spot game.

Surprisingly, the trail does climb out of this lonely ravine, climbing back up to an elevation of 947 ft. elevation over the next .4 miles - admittedly a steep climb. As you ascend the steep track that leads up out of the deep gully, you will emerge onto a plateau with a young forest spreading in a northeasterly direction over a low hillock to your left. At the crest of the hill the track splits, with an overgrown

What I carry in my emergency bag: My emergency kit has come about rather organically, meaning that it’s contents have changed over the years reflecting my changing priorities between having yummy snacks about to cheer my disposition in a tight spot, or carrying the less inspiring but more practical necessities to keep the body warm and dry - a major concern in our climate. But here’s what currently lives in the small belted pouch I carry in hopes of never using it: Pen-sized flashlight Smallest sized Swiss army knife Emergency Bivvy sack butane lighter & plastic wrapped matches 1 can sardines (not likely to be eaten casually) 1 packet hot chocolate 1 compressible nylon bag (for gathering mushrooms) 1 Leatherman “Juice” tool Assorted bandages Emergency reflective blanket Extra strength Acetominophen & Advil Neosporin & Chapstick Compass Extra AA and AAA batteries Oregon Department of Forestry map Strike-all fire starter stick Chicken consommé cubes 3 small candles 1 set leather shoe laces Pen Dental floss/string Camera

path leading left and a slightly more traveled route leading directly onwards.

The route leading forward circles the hillock and ends in a clearing among low pine trees, but no discernible onward path.

The route to the left, on the other hand, ascends the northern side of the hillock in a rough but discernible track. About 1/3 of a mile up this track you will see some taller trees to your left. These trees mark the end of this section of the forest; just beyond is a younger clearcut with trees only growing to 6-10 feet. This open area is quite easily crossed and once over the crest of the hill you will encounter another track that circles the crest of this hillock.

With that connection, you’ve now linked up with the “mainline” route into the Gourlay Creek that runs along the northern and eastern sides of this hillock.

The track encircling the crest of this hillock winds back down the northern side to the “mainline” route into the area. The “mainline” route is easily recognizable from the gradual slope, the finer grade of gravel and the plentiful evidence of frequent use. It runs around the eastern side of the hillock about 50 feet below the crest.

If you choose to return to Otto Miller route using the “mainline” trail the distance is about 1.6 miles to the gate, but almost 4 miles if you have to walk back up to the Upper gate. Returning by way of the Upper Gourlay Trail to Otto Miller Road is about 3.5 miles, with the steep descent and ascent in and out of the Gourlay Creek gully. By contrast the route out on the “mainline” route drops gradually all the way to the bridge, and then rises marginally as the road approaches Otto Miller road.

I would recommend an exit by way of the “mainline” route, if you have positioned a second car at the “mainline” gate, otherwise it’s a half mile shorter to return by the way you came.