Exploring the Pacific Greenway: from Portland to the Coast

Ridge Runners’ Delight

Distance:  18.7 miles

Biking duration: 4 hours 30 minutes

Travel time to trailhead: 90 minutes minutes

Driving directions to the trailhead: From downtown Portland drive west on US 26 for 64.1 miles to the Saddle Mountain highwat. Drive up the Saddle Mountain highway for 3.1 miles and pull of on the left side of the road in the slight pull-off area located there. Locate the trail leading west into the forest that leads to a 3-way intersection on a nearby logging road.

Elevation change: 947 feet from Grindy Creek to summit of Elk bugle pass - in 2.53 miles

Conditions: graveled logging roads, short distance of clear forest path, and one washed out ravine requiring a traverse down a steep stony slope

Brief summary: A long sloping descent along well maintained (exception is washed out ravine) logging roads descending from 2200 ft to Seaside over 15 miles. Tremendous views; very exhilarating.

Ridge runners’ Delight covers the last 25 miles to the Coast, and what a ride it is!

When it came time to explore this last section of the trail to the coast, I had planned an overnight hike, covering the 18 to 20 miles in two days. Unfortunately, plans went awry and we had only one day to accomplish this hike. So we resolved to make the push through in one day - using bikes!

Now mind you, I’m a walker not a biker. I do own and occasionally ride a sturdy street bike with decent tires that have real tread, but I am not a season two-wheeler. And my companion James Benson was likewise bicycle challenged and ended up using his wife’s bike - a “semi” Mountain Bike with fatter tires than mine. But this was to be one of the first times we’d ventured out onto the logging roads depending upon more than our shoe leather.

Our prior hike in the long series of hikes between Portland and the Coast, had taken us from Vinemaple located on the Nehalem River up Boller Ridge to Saddle Mountain. Following the paved Saddle Mountain Road we then traversed the north side and western shoulder of Humbug Mountain and eventually reached an area directly west of Saddle mountain on the western shoulder of Humbug Mountain. At that time we had penetrated the logging road network by bushwhacking westward off of Saddle Mountain Road until we located one of the logging roads that served that slope. On that prior trip we had penetrated west of Saddle Mountain as far as Grindy Creek, before we resolved to finish our trip another time. From Grindy Creek we had retraced our steps back to the Saddle Mountain Road, emerging on a logging road that intersected with this paved access road half way down the mountain to US 26.

On this excursion we began by seeking out a more direct way to bushwhack into the logging road network that descended westwards in a series of peaks down to the Neawanna Heights overlooking Seaside. Our original bushwhack into this logging network had not been as easy to follow as we might have hoped so we were pleased to find a visible short trail connecting the Saddle Mountain road to the logging roads located exactly 3.1 miles from the base of Saddle Mountain road.

Look for a wide shoulder on the left side of the road and a path leading west through the trees. This bring you to an intersection of three logging roads at an elevation of 1365 ft. Use the right hand fork that proceeds northwards and winds downhill to the intersection with Grindy Creek. Before reaching Grindy Creek you will pass a poorly maintained side road coming in from the north (right side), and you will also pass an intersection with a well maintained road leading downwards from you left. This is the trail that we took to exit the area on our last attempt and it eventually leads back to the Saddle Mountain Road. The road passes another intersection shortly thereafter, and you should choose the right hand fork that leads uphill along the ridge that divides the watershed. On your right are streams that flow into the Lewis and Clark River eventually flowing into Young’s Bay and reaching the sea by way of Astoria. On the left are streams, like Grindy , Charlie and Klootchie Creeks that flow into the Necanicum which runs alongside US 26 and debauches into the Pacific at Seaside.

As we follow this ridge-line road it eventually crosses Grindy Creek at an elevation of 1185 feet. From there the trail leads upwards for what seems like an eternity (in reality only 2.5 miles) before reaching the summit of what I call Bugle Summit - at an elevation of about 2142 ft.

Shortly after crossing Grindy Creek, the trail splits what what appears to be the main route heading rightwards. This is an alternative route that circles around the peak directly ahead. But we, being gluttons for punishment, take the left hand fork and begin the long trudge uphill pushing our bikes, for lack of decent bike conditioning. This traverse is about 1.4 miles long and rises about 570 ft as it passes through a middle-aged alder forest, crossing 3 side trails. This road is also well used by the elk and dear as evidenced by frequent scat and continuous prints along the way. Eventually, the road turns abruptly upwards to the right, while the straight option stays level, but shows far less use. We will follow the well-trodden road up and around the end of the ridge. As we emerge from the climb the road opens up to the south affording us with the first spectacular views of the mountain south of US 26 From here the road levels out a bit rising only about 377 ft in elevation over the next mile where it crests at 2142 ft. Just below this summit James and I were surprised to be accosted by an elk bugling from a mere 50 feet away from the road. The rather nasally bugle culminated by a brief whistle coda was most impressive, but our challenger evidently thought better about showing himself - and since the hunting season had already started this was probably a wise move. Nonetheless we heard his heavy hooves on the forest floor as he made his exit. The height of land lay just ahead, so I’ve named this high point of our route the Bugle Summit.

Just beyond the Bugle Summit the road begins to drop, and it basically continues dropping all the way to the ocean more than 20 miles away. As you descend look northwards and you will see spectacular view of Saddle Mountain.

As you continue your westward descent you will have opportunity to view the mountains to your south. This cluster of mountains lies in a triangle between US 26 to the North, the Nehalem River to the East and Nehalem Bay to the South. To the east lies Kidder’s Butte - one of a pair of peaks exceeding 2200 ft in elevation. In the immediate foreground is the aptly named Sugar Loaf Mountain - a perfect sugar cone that reaches 2680 in elevation. And in the distance lies a distinctive peak with what appears to be two horns reaching up to 3057 feet: Onion Peak. Beyond Onion Peak lies Ecola State Park and the Pacific Ocean.

To the North are equally dramatic views. To the East you can see Wickiup Mountain and Elk Mountain. Separating Saddle Mountain from the range bordering the Columbia River are Young’s River and the two forks of the Klaskanine River.

As mentioned previously the tributaries draining off the south flank of this ridge flow into the Necanicaum River.The Necanicum Watershed's 85 square mile footprint has nurtured humans and wildlife for thousands of years. Early accounts of the Claptsop Plain and the native settlements in the region indicate that the Necanicum was home to an native lodge, not surprising given the volumes of salmon ascending this lively stream. In less than 21 miles, this river and its tributaries run from a height of more than 2,800 feet in the Oregon Coast Range down to the Pacific Ocean. The upper watershed is dominated by coniferous forests of Sitka spruce, Douglas fir and western hemlock. The name of this river and the communities nestled on its banks have changed many time over the years, but finally the original Indian name has persevered. In the Clatsop tongue the name is said to describe a gay and animated entity in the mountains - certainly that aspect of this stream has not changed in the intervening years.

The early settlers of this area were Russian Finns who hacked a living out of these forests. Transportation into the Necanicum Valley was by horseback from Seaside. And it was possible by means of this steep river valley to ascend and cross into the Nehalem watershed and thereby reach the village of Elsie on the Nehalem River.